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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.